Your Skin and the Silent Saboteur Stalking it

We have known for quite a while that the sun is Enemy No1 for skin cancer and skin ageing. 

However, there is another silent saboteur stalking our skin every day. What is less know is that air/ozone pollution is also a huge danger to our skin and can also cause pre-maturing ageing and all kind of other health problems.

Take care, it is coming!

We all know about ozone. That is the layer that occurs naturally in the earth’s upper atmosphere and protects us from the sun’s harmful UV radiation. 

There is another ozone layer: tropospheric ozone/ground level ozone/smog. https://en.wikipedia.org/wiki/Tropospheric_ozone.  It is formed by the interaction of sunlight with hydrocarbons and nitrogen oxides, which are usually emitted by motor vehicles, coal fired power stations, factories and veld fires.

Recently it was published that Mpumalanga is the most polluted area in the world, so it is not just something that happens elsewhere, it is here and we need to take note of it. 

Greenpeace says an analysis of satellite data shows Mpumalanga as the “worst” nitrogen dioxide air pollution hot spot across six continents.

Ground level ozone causes damage to the skin via a process called oxidative stress.

Oxidative stress is an imbalance between the production of free radicals and the ability of the body to counteract or detoxify their harmful effects through neutralisation by antioxidants. In other words, ground ozone can cause depletion of natural antioxidants in the skin such as Vitamin A, C and E., therefore damaging the proteins and lipids in the stratum corneum (outermost layer of the epidermis).

The role of antioxidants is to protect the skin against free radical damage caused by environmental aggressors. Ozone pollution causes inflammation which causes of  line lines and wrinkles, excessive oiliness, rough texture and increased sensitivity.

Sunscreen will not protect your skin against ozone pollution. So it stands to reason that we should start looking at ingredients that can help with this problem.

I now routinely recommend using a topical antioxidant such as Vitamin A, C and E.

Vitamin A capsules for and instant skin boost

Vitamin A (retinol)

It has a proven successful record in treating the following:

Fine expression lines

Wrinkles

Acne break outs

Free radical damaged caused by recent UV and Ground Ozone is minimised

Recommended At Home Product:

Vitaderm Skin-Perfection Capsules

Vitaderm Skin Perfection Capsules

                      

Vitaderm Multi Vitamin Treatment Cream

Vitaderm Vitality Booster Mask

 

Vitamin C for cell protection and collagen formation

Vitamin C (ascorbic acid)

When natural, biologically-active vitamin C enters skin cells, it results in the following significant well-documented effects:

Formation of sun-spots are reduced and prevented

Free radical damaged caused by recent UV and Ground Ozone is minimized

It causes an Anti-ageing effect by stimulating collagen formation

Skin smoothness is enhanced

Recommended At Home Products:

Vitaderm Radian C Serum 

                         

Vitaderm Multi Vitamin Treatment Cream

Vitaderm Vitality Booster Mask

Almonds are a good source of Vitamin E

Vitamin E (tocopheryl)

Protects against effect of free radicals.

Long term use can even reduce sunburns from exposure to UVB radiation.

Reduce the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles.

Reduce the appearance of stretch marks

vitamin e can help prevent the appearance of age spots

Helps maintain the skin’s oil balance during the cleansing process

Reduces transepidermal water loss from skin and strengthens the skin’s barrier function

Recommended At Home Products:

Vitaderm Hydrating Treatment Cream                  

Vitaderm Brightening Treament Cream

Vitaderm MultiVitamin Treatment Cream.

Vitaderm Firming Treatment Cream

Vitaderm  Anti-Oxidant Cream

Vitaderm Aromatic Complex
Vitaderm Lipid Complex

Please contact Gerda at 082 398 9817 for enquiries

Nutrition and Skin Health-supplements for all skin problems

Good nutrition is vital for skin health

Nutrition is such a fundamental part of our health and well-being. Without proper nutrition our bodies cannot function properly and we will get ill.

I cannot stress it enough; we need to eat well to be well. With that I mean fresh fruits and vegetables, nuts and seeds in their raw states where possible. Drink plenty of water and limit alcohol and fizzy drinks. Eat much less meat, sugar, saturated fats and dairy. 

Nutrition is very important at every stage of our skin development. For healthy skin we need collagen which our bodies make from Vitamin C. To maintain healthy collagen and elastin we need anti-oxidants which our bodies get from Vitamin A, C and E and others. We need fatty acids to keep our skin’s sebum in good health which we get from nuts and seeds. I can go on and on….

As we all know by now, we don’t always get enough vitamins and minerals from our diet and therefore it is a good idea to supplement as well with at least:

• A good multivitamin and mineral from a natural source
• 1000mg Vitamin C
• Cal/Mag in the correct ratio 1:2 ie 400g magnesium to 800g calcium
• Omega 3 and 6
• PLUS any other vitamins as discussed under each skin type/condition/problem

Eat healthy

Ageing skin

According to Dr Nicolas Perricone “ageing is just an inflammatory process”

So, we need to slow down inflammation in our bodies. With this mind, we need to look at nutrients that are anti-inflammatory and that will give our bodies the best change to fight oxidative stress.

The ideal anti-ageing diet will therefore be rich in Omega 3, 6 and 9 and anti-oxidants.

For optimal skin care we need to supplement with the following:

• Vitamin C buffered with Calcium -1000mg
• Omega 3 –loading dose followed by maintenance load*
• Good multivitamin of natural origin
• Vitamin A-2000 to 2500 iu

Remember to take your supplements

Dry Skin

Contributing factors for dry skin (lacking in oil) include a lack of essential fatty acids, Vitamin A as well as water.  Diets should be high in essential fatty acids from seeds and their oils, but low in saturated fat.  Eat lots of fruit and vegetables that contain large amount of water. Limit alcohol and coffee intake.

For optimal skin care we need to supplement with the following:

•  Essential fatty acids such as flax (omega3) and evening primrose oil or borage oil (omega6)
• Vitamin A 5000iu                  
• Vitamin E 200 to 400 iu
• Vitamin B6
•  Zinc
• Vitamin C buffered with Calcium -500mg
  
  
  

  

  Fresh food is best!

Oily Skin

In treating oily skin we should respect the oil/water balance of the skin in order to reduce the oiliness, but keep the skin healthy and comfortable. By removing too much oil topically, the skin will try and re-adjust the lipid levels and produce more oil. It is much more effective to also help from within.

For optimal skin care we need to supplement with the following:

• Lecithin capsules- 400mg
•  Vitamin C buffered with Calcium -1000mg

Acne skin

Acne-prone skin should ideally be treated both topically and systemic. Vitamin A plays a major role in treating acne. Vitamin A has been used for many years and is a tried and tested regime. It, however, important to note the following:

Vitamin A is an oil-soluble vitamin and is stored in the liver.  Therefore it is possible to take too much and poison your body (hypervitaminosis). 

All Vitamin A therapies are prohibited for the following individuals:

• Anyone who has been on Roaccutane or similar treatments within the last 3 months
• Anyone who is trying to fall pregnant within a few months’ time.

Fruits are needed for good health and well-being

For optimal skin care we need to supplement with the following:

• Vitamin A therapy
•   Lecithin capsules

After the Vitamin A therapy to control breakouts:

• Vitamin B3
• Zinc

Please contact me for an appointment so that I can discuss the therapy with you and monitor your progress

Ozone therapy in skin care- Vitaderm Lipid Complex with Activated Oxygen

Ozone is one of the most exciting ingredients to appear on the health and skin care horizon in decades.

Selection of oils

What is zone?
In the presence of ultra-violet light, oxygen (O2) is converted to activated oxygen (O3), which is commonly known as ozone. Medical grade ozone is produced by passing pure oxygen trough ultra-violet light.

Properties of Ozone.
Ozone has incredible anti-bacterial and healing properties. There is aa dramatic increase in the use of ozone world-wide. In Europe it is used to sterilize hospital theaters and air-conditioning and in other industries it is used to sterilize food preparation areas.

Recently a technique has been developed whereby ozone may be applied topically. This process allows for Ozone to be infused into naturally derived, organically grown plant oils, at high concentrations under a controlled environment until it slowly begins to solidify.  Doing this effectively captures and preserves the ozone, increasing its lifespan. There is no need to use chemicals, preservatives, or stabilizers. The oil becomes a gel or cream, making it easy to apply to the skin for a variety of conditions with no known side effects.

Good news; Ozonated oils don’t lead to the problem of micro-biological resistance — as do antibiotics. So it is safer to use these oils than antibiotics for acne and skin infections!

Ozone oils moisturise the skin and improve the appearance of blemishes, age spots, fine lines, and wrinkles

According to research, these oils have amazing effects:

• Stimulation of growth for skin cells
• Acts as a free radical scavenger on harmful toxins
• Cellulite Reduction
• Wrinkles reduction
• Soothes and heals burns, wounds, cuts, ulcers, insect bites and stings
• Cleans and sterilizes the epidermis
• Reduces swelling and redness
• Calms the nerves and reduces the amount of pain in skin conditions
• May increase cellular function and cellular memory
• Reduces scarring
• Sore muscles (helps to remove lactic acid from pores)
• Dermatitis
• Diaper Rash

Vitaderm Lipid Complex with Activated Oxygen. 50ml R 376. 

Vitaderm Lipid Comples with Ozone

On special promotion until end of June 2017, only R 320 !

This treatment product is a natural blend of plant based oils that has been infused with ozone.  The addition of sandal wood and chamomile extracts makes this a light textured complex suitable for all skin types, including oily/acne prone complexions. It actively oxygenates the skin, improving colour and tone of the skin.

Please contact me if you have any queries at gerda@agbeautysalon.co.za or Cell 0823989817


#absolutelygorgeous
#beautifulskin

Exfoliations and Gentle Peeling Products for home use

Absolutely Gorgeous Women

As a child I read about Cleopatra’s milk baths and Marie Antoinette’s red wine baths. I found it extremely peculiar, but it was only during my time at Beauty College that I realised they were not mad after all! They were probably the pioneers for fruit acids treatments.

We get lactic acid from milk and tartaric acid from red wine, so their baths had a wonderful exfoliation effect and I’m sure they were as smooth as butter afterwards.


Before I get carried away about their ingenuity, let me get back to basics.

Basics on skin cells
Our skin has five different layers and each layer has a specific purpose and lifetime. New skin cells are created in the lower or first skin layer and thereafter all the cells move upwards through the different layers while changing shape and eventually die and fall off.  This whole process is called desquamation.

The cell-life from birth to death usually takes 28-32 days.  As we grow older, this process slows down and it can then take up to about 45 days.  As the dead skin cells take longer and longer to shed, the skin starts to look dull and lifeless.  This is then when a good exfoliating product is a lifesaver.

Loofah to use on body

What is exfoliation?
Exfoliation is the removal of dead skin cells on the outermost surface of the skin, without causing trauma.

Until about 15 years ago the most popular exfoliating products on the market were granular-based. These granules were usually obtained from apricot pips or walnut shells, which were finely ground and then added to a cream or gel base.

The formulators for the beauty products then started to use different kinds of plastic micro-beads as well as finer granules obtained from various plant-based materials.

However, these micro-beads were found to be extremely harmful to marine life, and will be banned in the UK and US during 2017 as per this article
(https://www.theguardian.com/environment/2016/sep/02/uk-government-to-ban-microbeads-from-cosmetics-by-end-of-2017)

Due to newer technology, the latest offering from the beauty industry is fruit enzymes in gel and cream bases. These products are much gentler on the skin and my preferred products, with the exception of Wesson Therapeutics’ Micro Exfoliant, see comments below). The ingredients that are used in these formulations are for example, pineapple enzymes or bromelain, papaya enzymes or papain and tomato enzymes.  These enzymes only need gentle friction or heat to activate it so it is a good idea to use it while relaxing in the bath tub.

The granular formulations tend to be a bit harsh on the skin, especially in the hands of clients with oily/acne skin, as they tend to overdo the process a bit

What does it do?
A good exfoliator gently removes dead skin cells to reveal a smoother and more refined complexion. It should stimulate cellular activity while enhancing firmness, radiance and younger looking skin.

One should never exfoliate more than once a week in the case of oily/acne skins, and once every two weeks for all other skin types. This is probably not the advice that you have read, or heard all your life, but trust me, this is the way to go. If you exfoliate too much, you irritate the skin and overstimulate the oil glands in your skin and it then just produce more oil. You exfoliate again and the vicious cycle begins…….

Any exfoliating product should be removed with lots and lots of water.

Exfoliation for sensitive skins
Clients with sensitive/reactive skins usually are very wary of exfoliators. However, there are some product ranges specially formulated for sensitive skin like Wesson Therapeutics. I am in love with the Micro Exfoliant as it contains cactus saccharides (sugars). These granules are gentle on the skin and dissolve with the application of water and then wash away.


A Bit More Punch………..Fruit Acids please

Fruit Acid mask being applied

If your skin is still looking dull and lifeless, even if you are following a good skin care routine, it is time to look at the role that different fruit acids can play in getting that glowing, youthful looking skin.

Fruit acids are classified in two different categories; Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy Acids.

Alpha Hydroxy acids (AHA’s) that are normally used in cosmetics and cosmeceutical products are glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane or grapes), lactic acid (derived from milk), malic acid (derived from apples or beries), citric acid(derived from citrus fruit or from fermented sugar solutions),  as well as a myriad combinations with other ingredients.

There is only one Beta Hydroxy Acid (BHA), namely salicylic acid and its related substances, esters and salts, salicylate, sodium salicylate.

All these fruit acids may be used alone or in combinations in beauty products, depending on what the formulation will be used for.

In fruit acid exfoliators these ingredients will act as follows:
• Decrease the cohesion between surface skin cells-dissolve the”glue” that hold the cells together.
• Increase superficial skin exfoliation
• Increase cell turnover (the skin cells will move quicker between the layers)
• Stimulate collagen production-exceptionally good for anti-ageing results.

A word of caution
Fruit acid exfoliators give better and quicker results as those mentioned earlier, but come with a couple of cautionary notes:
Please follow your beautician’s instructions on how to incorporate this into your daily skin care routine.
Please do not overuse as it can cause skin sensitivity.
Please do not use it if you skin is sun burnt or show any other sings of damage.
Please use a SPF 30+ everyday, no matter what the weather looks like.
Please stop using it if you experience any adverse effects

In spite of the caution, these are highly effective ingredients that will deliver on its promise.

Be gentle with your skin

The following exfoliators and home care fruit acids treatments are available from the Beautique:

Vitaderm Skin Polishing Cream R 285/60ml

Active ingredients-Extracts of peppermint, lavender and sandalwood, apricot seed powder.
 This product is suitable for all skin types except ultra-sensitive. It stimulates circulation and revitalise the complexion.

Vitaderm Skin Polishing Cream

Vitaderm Enzymatic Gel Exfoliator R295/60ml
Active ingredients-Papaya and pineapple enzymes, citrus fruit extract.
This product is suitable for all skin types except ultra-sensitive. It revitalise a dull complexion by gently and effectively remove dead skin cells, enhancing the skin’s radiance.

Vitaderm Enzymatic Gel Exfoliator

Vitaderm AHA Active Gel 465/50ml
Active ingredients- lactic acid, glycolic acid, citric acid.
This AHA Active gel is rich in fruit acids which work actively to smooth the skin’s surface and flush excess pigment. It restores radiance to all skin types and assists in reducing fine lines and wrinkles. In the case of oily/acne-prone skin types, the gel encourages fewer breakouts by replenishing the acid mantle of the epidermis. By restoring the natural acidity, the skin is able to protect and heal itself more effectively.

Vitaderm AHA Ative Gel

Wesson Therapeutics Micro Exfoliant R 180/50ml
This product contains an ultra-fine grade of cactus sugar ( trehalose) to gently polish away dry epidermal cells. It is fragrance free and hypo allegenic.

Wesson Therapeutics Micro Exfoliant

Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy R890/50ml

Active ingredients-
A powerful one-step resurfacing cream that can be used every day. The continual renewing action of powerful poly0hydroxy acids, works 24 hours a day like a time-released peel, continually shedding the epidermal layer. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy can be used to achieve instantly glowing skin with long term results on the appearance of wrinkles, freckles, age-spots and even acne scarring.

Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy

TheraVine™ Grapeseed Exfoliator R286/50ml
Active ingredients-Crushed Grape Seeds, Walnut shell beads, Neroli, Sweet orange
A gentle cream containing crushed Pinotage grape seeds, which sloughs off dead skin cells and makes skin look younger.

TheraVine™ Grapeseed Exfoliator

TheraVine™ Pinotage Exfoliating Enzyme R307/50ml
Active ingredients-Grape seed extract, pineapple and papaya extract, Sweet Orange.A highly effective deep cleansing serum based gel which effectively exfoliates the skin.

TheraVine™ Pinotage Exfoliating Enzyme

Please feel free to look at our website at AGBeautysalon for more information on these and other products.

Prices correct at time of publication, but may change without any notification.

Preparing your skin for the colder seasons

With autumn here and winter not far off, it is time to look at salon treatments and home care routine that will see your skin through this dry, windy and cold seasons. 

 I have to admit, that this is my favourite time of year. Usually by beginning of January I've had enough of summer and the oppressing heat, and can hardly wait for the colder weather to arrive.  To top it all off, we had a much drier summer this year than last, and that did not help to make it more bearable.

Autumn is the ideal time of year to start a skin regime that will get rid of all the dry, sun-exposed summer skin and to add radiance and help with skin cell renewal. 

Environmentally it is a more gentler time of year to use Alpha and Beta Hydroxy acids as well as Vitamin A to help restructure and revitalise your skin.

Alpha Hydroxy Acids are incredibly effective in addressing all these aspects. I have blogged about this before so please read the following post for more on that:
http://agbeautysalon.blogspot.com/2014/12/get-your-glow-back-looking-at.html

Although Vitamin A/Retinol is not a new ingredient in the beauty industry it has a proven, successful track record as a must-have in your fight against ageing. Retinol is more effective than Retin-A which is far more irritating to the skin than Retinol, which is why Retinol has become the preferred option. With regular use, the skin appears revitalised, hydrated and more even-toned. 

Caution: A recent letter of concern was published by the American Food and Drug Association regarding the use of Retinyl Palmitate in day-time use products. Of particular concern, they feel, is the use of this ingredient within sunscreen products.

Tests indicate that it may very well increase the incidence of skin cancer. Therefore, please only use Vitamin A products at night and it is essential that you use a SPF 25 on higher during the day, everyday...

Vitaderm Skin Perfection Retinol Capsules
Autumn is the perfect time to introduce active skin care items that might be photo-sensitizing, and therefore contra-indicated for use during the summer months.  The ingredient that produces the most striking results is Retinol.

Vitaderm Skin Perfection Capsules

In the past, however, so few people have been able to tolerate the side effects of retinoids like Retin-A cream.  Fortunately, a break though in ingredient technology allows us to incorporate retinol as an encapsulated ingredient, within a liposomal delivery system.  This ‘cushions’ the ingredient to prevent it from causing sensitivity that is normally associated with topical vitamin A therapy.  In addition, this liposome delivery system increases the depth to which the retinol can penetrate, increasing its effectiveness drastically.  What can you expect to see from incorporating Retinol into your skin care program, you may ask?  Typically, we see a drastic improvement in the smoothness of the skin within about 2-3 weeks.  Fine lines begin to diminish by week 3, especially around the eye area.    Retinol should only be used at night.

Vitaderm Ceramide Treatment Cream

For dry skin, the best products with which to complement Retinol Capsules, are the low aromatic items like Vitaderm Lipid Complex and Ceramide Treatment Cream.   For moderately dry skin that is particularly sensitive, we suggest using the Vitaderm Desensitising Cream in combination with the Retinol Capsules.

The ideal way to incorporate these capsules is to use half of the jar during Autumn, and the balance during Spring.  During the coldest winter months there are other options to consider in order to protect the skin against harsh environmental factors.

Enjoy observing the dramatic transformation in your skin, brought about by our Skin Perfection Retinol Capsules, but don’t forget the sunscreen every day and for 10 days after having stopped the Retinol capsules.

Vitaderm’s Hydroxy Acid Serum contains alpha-and beta-hydroxy acids in combination 
to actively smooth the skin’s surface and improve clarity.

 It restores radiance to all skin types and assists in reducing fine lines and wrinkles.  It is also ideal for use on oily/acne-prone skin types.  

The product assists the skin in healing more rapidly.

Vitaderm Hydroxy Acid Serum

Vitaderm Introductory Skin Care Kits for gifts and first-time users

Introductory Kits

Vitaderm is launching new Introductory Kits in December 2014. The first four kits will each contain the following items:

Cleanser 50ml, Toner 50ml, Day Cream 20ml, Night Cream 20ml as well as a specialized item such as a Complex or Serum 15ml.

Oily/Acne Prone Kit

Thi skin care selection is suitable for Oily skin that is prone to breakouts and contains Purifying Gel Cleanser/Antiseptic toner/Pore Minimising Gel/Purifying Cream/Skin Renewal Gel.

Normal/Combination Kit

This kit is recommended for Young, Problem Free skin types, as an initial introduction to skin care program and contains Mild Gel Cleanser/Regulating Toner, Ultra-Light Moisture Cream/Hydrating Treatment Cream/Soothing Complex.

Dry/Dehydrated Kit

This skin care collection is suitable for Dry Skin that is prone to dehydration. It contains Gentle Cream Cleanser/Conditioning Toner/Hydrating Treatment Cream/Protective Cream/Hydrating Complex.

Dry/Alipidic Skin

This kit is recommended for Dry and Very Dry skin, lacking sebaceous activity and contains Nourishing Cream Cleanser/Conditioning Toner/Ceramide Treatment Cream/Vitamin Night Cream/Regenerating Complex.

Normal Retail Price:  R392  Special Retail Price:   R333

Acne-a skin condition, not a life sentence

What is acne?

Acne is a skin condition located in the hair follicles on the skin.  It can be seen on the face, back, chest and arms of both male and female.  The first signs usually appears during puberty, around 14-17 years of age in girls, and 16 –19 years of age in boys.  It comes in spurts and can be triggered by sunlight, hormones, menstrual cycles and pollution. Approximately 15% of teenage girls will require treatment for their acne.  Most cases clear up in the late teens and early twenties.  Approximately 5% of women over the age of 25 will still need treatment.

There are four main reasons for the development of acne:

• Over production of sebum, a natural oil that keeps the skin soft and supple, due to an increase in androgens (male hormones) at puberty.
• Abnormal build up of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, and in the hair follicles, which results in blocked pores.
• Inflammation in the blocked pores
• Bacterial infection
  

What acne is not..

• Despite the inflammation and bacterial infection that occur, acne is not an infectious ailment.
• What you eat or drink does not cause acne.

Treating acne

There are a number of means of treating acne:

• Medical treatments: antibiotics, Vitamin A derivatives, both oral and topical, benzoyl peroxide and in some specific cases, hormone therapy.
• Dermo-cosmetic treatments: most of the beauty houses offer an acne specific treatment.
• The earlier you start to treat your acne, the better change you have of getting it under control.

Treating plan using a professional salon product.

1.       Washing

This will rid the skin of excess oil, imbedded impurities and environmental dirt, without stripping the skin of all oil and causing irritation and dryness. Use a facial brush and softly move it in small circles over the effected area.

2.       Toning

This step will restore the Ph level of the skin.

                                                                                           

3.       Moisturise

Although the skin is oily, it still needs to be moisturised.  This cream helps to lessen the shine of the skin and to restore the moisture/oil balance of the skin.

4.       Specialised acne creams

Using specialised acne creams will help to reduce inflammation, redness and scarring and will control excess oil production.

5.       Sun protection

A sunscreen is essential for acne skin.  When tanning, the outer layer of the skin thickens, and although the tan makes acne seem to disappear, this only causes them to develop.

General comments

Treating acne can be a long and difficult process.  However, with time, patience and a personalised treatment programme, it can be treated and controlled.  You do not have to “live with it”!

• Please do not buy products that are not properly formulated for this skin condition: which are often irritating, drying and damaging to the skin.

• Avoid squeezing and pressing the acne, as this will increase the risk of infection and possible scarring.  Please leave this for us in the salon.

• Please stay of the sun, whenever possible.  If you have to be outside, always wear a sunscreen formulated for acne skin.

For more information, please contact us at 082 398 9817 or visit our website at www.agbeautysalon.co.za