Everyday skin care routines for all ages

I received a number of requests to explain the everyday routines one should follow to help one on a path to easier skin care, with optimal results.

Care for your skin, you'll be glad you did.

There are such a huge variety of skin care products available, that it is very easy to get confused and discouraged to start a skin care routine.  This as a simple step-by-step routine that anyone can follow, no matter what your age, skin type or concern.

Assuming that you already have established what you skin type and skin concerns are, you need to ask your beautician to recommend the following products, suitable for you:

Basics: Cleanser, toner, day cream, night cream, sun screen and eye cream.

This is the basics that you will need. Yes, everyone needs and eye cream and a sun screen, no matter what your age. Please note that your day and night cream can be the same, it does not need to be two different creams, as long as it does not contain a sunscreen or products that you should not be wearing during the day, ex Vitamin A.

Optional extras: Make-up remover, exfoliator, face mask, serums and oils.

If you are just starting a home-care routine, you may not want, or be financially in a position, to buy everything that is in the salon for your skin type immediately- these are nice to have, but it will not be a disaster if you cannot buy it as well.

 If you can afford it, regular visits, once every 4-6 weeks, to your beautician, will be awesome for your skin, and use the best products that you can afford.

Basic routines that everyone can follow:

Morning routine:

Cleaner, toner eye cream, day cream, sunscreen.

Evening routine:

Cleaner, toner, eye cream, night cream.

Once a week: Clean , exfoliate, mask, tone, eye cream, day or night cream-depending on what time you do this.

Teens to Thirties

This is the stage of your life where you want to keep your skin hydrated and protected. Whether you have normal, oily/acne or a combination skin, you can keep your routine simple.

Daily Skin Care Routine For Teens to 28/30 Years of age

 Thirties to Forties years of age

This is the time to start with an anti-aging routine. Yes, anti-aging! It is not too soon as we all are exposed on a daily basis to environmental aggressors that create havoc with our skins.

Most good skin ranges will have products that are formulated to be used as an early prevention against ageing. You do not need to use all the anti-ageing products, but it is a good idea to change your eye cream and night cream to an anti-aging range. You can now also look at a hydrating serum or oil to add to you products, as it is then very easy to customize your routine a bit more. Add  the serum and oil in the morning and/or night, depending on how dry your skin are in either of those times.

How to incorporate your serum or oil into your routine:

Morning routine:

Cleaner, toner, eye cream, serum or oil, day cream, sunscreen.

Evening routine:

Cleaner, toner, eye cream, serum or oil, night cream.

Once a week: Clean , exfoliate, mask, tone, eye cream, serum or oil, day or night cream-depending on what time you do this.

Daily Skin Care Routine For Thirties to Forties

Forties and upwards

At this stage on our life, our skin texture and oil/water ratio changes and all of a sudden your normal skin products are not just doing the job anymore.

It is now time to ask your beautician to re-evaluate your skin concerns and your product range.  You will most likely have to start using a richer day and night cream and please change all of your skin products over to the anti-ageing range.

You will have to start looking at products with ingredients such as Vitamin A (retinols), collagen synthesis stimulating ingredients, Hyaluronic acid, Vitamin E, etc that have powerful anti-ageing and anti-wrinkle properties.

You can also incorporate an exfoliator that contains Alpha Hydroxy Acids in your weekly routine.  It will stimulate cell-turnover, which can slow down as we age.

Please contact Gerda at; gerda@agbeautysalon.co.za or 082 398 9817 for more inforation or to book an apppointment for a free-of-charge skin consultation 

Will wearing make-up cause breakouts?

Always keep these five tips in mind for beautiful morning-after skin!

1. Wearing make-up will not let you breakout unless you use foundation/powder/concealer that suits your skin type and if you cleanse properly at night time. 
2. When cleansing you skin, you are removing any make-up, impurities, dead skin cells, sweat, and sebum that have accumulated during the day. 
3. Our skin is also a very easy-to-reach dumping ground for dust and other air pollutants. 
4. If you forget to remove your make-up before going to sleep, it will be more difficult in the morning to remove that stubborn mascara and stay-on-forever lip colour. 
5. So , please do not forget to cleanse your skin very well at night to prevent any breakouts.

What is my skin type?

Here is a quicky on how to determine your skin type:

• Clean your skin with warm water and cotton wool balls. 
• Dry lightly with a towel and wait 30 minutes. 
• Cover you face with one layer of paper tissue, press lightly and leave for about one minute. 
• Remove and examine it.

Results:

• Oily stains over most of the tissue: your skin type is oily
• Oily patches at side of nose, around mouth and forehead: Your skin type is combination
• Faint oily traces over most of the tissue: your skin type is normal
• No oily traces: your skin type is dry

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Antarctilyne Plump3™ is able to visably increase the level of the skins collagen, assist in keeping the skins collagen looking uniform and assist in protecting the skins collagen from degeneration
Skin Doctors™ Antarctilyne Plump3™ is used to:

• Visibly increase the level of the skins collagen.

• Assist in keeping the skins collagen looking uniform

• Assist in protecting the skins collagen from degeneration

• Plump the appearance of wrinkles by up to 35% in 30 days.

• Improve the visible appearance of the skin by making it firmer and smoother, helping wrinkles to become less noticeable.

• Deeply hydrate the skin to help prevent premature ageing and the formation of new wrinkles.

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• Reduce the appearance of crow’s feet, creeping and under eye wrinkles. 
• Eyesmooth is specifically formulated to smooth away signs of ageing without surgery.
• With the active ingredient Matrixyl 3000, Eyesmooth has been clinically proven to reduce the appearance of deep eye wrinkles by up to 45% in 8 weeks.
• Eyesmooth also contains SesaFlash to instantly tighten the skin and Shea Butter to condition and hydrate

Puffy eye syndrome & Under eye bags

Puffy eye syndrome is probable the number one irritation to all of us. You all must have experienced it some or other time. You wake up one morning, and there they are! For some it will be a temporarily problem, for others it may last a few days or weeks, but fortunately there is a cure somewhere that should work for you.


What causes puffy eyes?
There are all manner of reasons why people develop puffy eye syndrome. Here are some typical causes for the puffy eyes that you wake up to:

Everyday causes of Puffy Eyes:

The good news is that puffy eyes are cause mostly by fluid retention due of any one of the following reasons:

• Fluctuating hormone levels.
• Oedema or fluid retention throughout the body. Pregnancy also causes increasing oedema.
• Certain medication.
• Allergies, which may also result in itchiness and redness of the eyes and surrounding tissue.
• Inflammation.
• Smoking.
• Diet
• Your genes can also help this along!

Under eye bags:
Please note that there is a huge difference between “puffy eyes” due to day-to-day causes and huge bags that rest on the top of your cheeks. Most bags under the eyes are the result of accumulated fat in the eye area. This happens when the septum surrounding the eyeball weakens, causing the outer layer of fat within the socket to sink forward – making it look like you have literal “bags” under your eyes.

Unfortunately, the only cure for bags under the eyes is a surgical procedure called blepharoplasty, which is designed to remove excess fat, skin and muscle around the eyes. However, there are some treatments that will reduce the appearance of under eye bags.

Sometimes a more serious medical condition can also be the problem:

• Kidney disease: In some cases, bags under the eyes are a sign of kidney problems.
• Hypothyroidism. A slow thyroid affects 2 in 100 women or 2% of the female population. Your slow thyroid may be causing those bags under your eyes too.
• Poor Diet. An excess of sodium in your diet will cause you to retain water
• Accumulation of Toxins. Sometimes a slow digestive system can add to the overall problem. When the intestines get clogged with bile and mucous, they can't function properly. Try detoxing for a couple of days with fresh fruit, vegetables and lots of water.

What to do about puffy eye syndrome and under-eye bags:

• The simplest way to reduce puffy eye syndrome that is caused by water retention, is to drink more water!
• Gently tap with your finger tips around the eye to drain the fluid
• Apply cold compresses to the eye area like a wash cloth soaked in cold water or gel filled eye pack that you can keep in the freezer*
• Reduce your salt intake
• Get enough sleep-at least 8 hours
• Wear sunglasses when outside to reduce sun light glare and protect your eyes against wind, dust etc
• Try sleeping on your back with your head elevated; this will encourage drainage.
• Apply a good eye gel, specifically formulated for puffy eyes, sparingly every morning.
• If you suspect a more serious medical condition, please see you GP.

Products that I can recommend for amazing results that the Beautique stocks:


Skin Doctors Eyecircle



Skin Doctors Eyesmooth



Skin Doctors Eyetuck

General care for the skin around your eyes

The skin around the eyes is ten times thinner than the skin on the face, it is also more sensitive and requires very gentle handling. As we age, skin loses its elasticity and becomes thinner due to a breakdown of collagen. The desquamation* process takes longer as we age and therefore the healing process also takes longer.

Damage to our skin can be further aggravated by harsh environmental exposures. The skin of the eye contour is constantly moving, blinking alone produces 10 000 movements per day. We use our facial muscles when we talk, laugh, squint and cry which all add up to those dreaded wrinkles, lines, dark circles and puffiness. Rubbing and tugging of the delicate skin under the eye due to allergies, crying, eye makeup removal and insertion and removal of contact lenses can contribute to sagging of the this area.

One should take extra care when choosing a skincare product for this area. Products that contain gentle, non-irritating compounds that target the specific problem be it wrinkles, puffiness or dark circles, along with a wide range of vitamins, antioxidants, and skin-plumping substances are ideal choices.

There are such a large variety of ingredients that can help with whatever problem you have with the eye area, that I would rather explain them in the product reviews.
However, I would like to tell you how to remove your eye-make-up with minimum stress to the area:

Use a good professional salon make-up remover: This is a product formulated specifically for the eye area and can either be a liquid or a thicker, milky lotion. If you use water proof mascara make sure that the one you choose can cope with this very difficult-to-remove make-up product. Be very, very gentle when cleansing the eye area as it is very easy to stretch the skin. If you cannot be gentle please rather use a water-soluble cleanser that can wash it away!

How to remove your eye make-up: Always use damp cotton wool, as some of the cotton wool feels like abrasive pads on the skin when dry. Soak the cotton wool in the make-up remover and place over the eyelids. Wait 5 to 10 seconds for the make-up to softens, then gently stroke the eye lashes from base to tip to remove the mascara. Then stroke softly (not rub and scrub!) from the inside to the outside corner of the eye. Repeat this process until all make-up is removed. If there is still be some stubborn make-up, especially eyeliner around the lashes, use an ear bud (Q-tip) soaked in the remover and gently wipes it away. Now you can cleanse your whole face with your skin specific cleanser. Use a gentle toner and the correct eye cream for your age and gently tap it on the eye bone.

Some basic general do’s and don’ts to help keeping the skin soft and healthy:

 Drink plenty of water. Water plays a crucial role maintaining the elasticity of skin.

 Stay out of the sun. Overexposure to ultraviolet rays causes melanocytes, the pigment-producing cells, to  mature abnormally. This results in age spots and uneven pigmentation. UV rays are responsible for up to 90% of aging and can add several years to your appearance.

 Wear sunglasses to avoid squinting.

 Get plenty of rest/sleep. Fatigue can cause skin to look pale and gaunt.

 Be gentle when removing makeup and avoid unnecessary tugging and pulling on the delicate tissue.

 Use a professional, specific skin care eye cream for your age group.

 Don’t smoke. Nicotine constricts blood vessels in the face and under the eyes. Constricted vessels also make it difficult for nutrients to be absorbed, which leads to a breakdown of collagen.

 Excessive drinking can cause dehydration, so limit yourself to a glass or two of wine every week.

 Eat a healthy diet with plenty of fresh fruits and vegetables.

 Apply all eye skin care products with a massage and tapping around the eye bone.

The skin around the eyes

The anatomy of the skin around the eyes, also referred to as the adnexa is unique to the face and body. The skin around the eyes is thinner and more sensitive, in fact ten times thinner than skin in other parts of the body, and as we age, it becomes even thinner due to the breakdown of collagen. It also has no sebaceous glands that produce extra oil onto the skin. This means no oil, and dry skin.

It is important to understand not only the anatomy of this area, but also the muscles involved as well as the process of skin cell renewal to completely know how to care for this delicate area.

The Orbicularis Oculi muscles are circular sphincters which surround the eyes and close the eyelids. They relax when sleeping and can be used independently as when winking. The Levator Palpebrae Superioris muscles sit on the eyelids, open the eyelids and work as an antagonist to the Orbicularis Oculi. The Corrugator Supercilii muscles are located in the orbital arch and draw the eyebrows inwards and downwards causing the vertical lines on the forehead when frowning

Eyelid skin is made up of several layers. The subcutaneous layer, the deepest of all, contains a fine layer of fascia, which lies top of the Orbicularis Oculi muscle. Another layer acts as the support layer of the skin, which is the dermis. The dermis is made up of threadlike proteins including elastin and collagen, fibroblasts, nerves and blood vessels. The top layer, the epidermis, is made up of basal cells, melanocytes, Langerhans cells, keratinocytes and on top, the dead cell layer (also known as the stratum corneum) made up of corneocytes. The epidermal layer gives the skin its appearance, colour, suppleness, texture, and health.

Basal cells reproduce new cells every few days. As these cells migrate upward, they become drier and flatter. Once they reach the surface of the skin, they are no longer alive, and are referred to as corneocytes. This process of migration from basal cell to corneocytes is what gives the epidermis the ability to regenerate itself. This skin renewal process is known as desquamation. Desquamation is an ongoing process that takes about two weeks in a young person and about 37 days for individuals over 50. The build up of corneocytes gives skin a callous or dry, aged and thickened look. The skin feels and looks rough and its ability to retain water becomes impaired.

The skin around the eyes is some of the thinnest, most delicate skin of your entire body. The capillaries are much closer to the surface of the skin there. Many people's skin is not only thinner around the eyes, but also more translucent. That is the basis of most of the problems that we experience around the eyes; dark circles, puffiness and fine lines and wrinkles

Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy Skin Resurfacing Cream

Here is the AGB Quick Product Review:

Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy

• Gamma Hydroxy works like a time-released chemical peel, constantly resurfacing the skin, day after day. If you want the resuts of a chemical peel, but cannot see yourself going through the flaking and peeling process, this is the answer!
• Originally developed as a resurfacing cream for acne scarring and pitting, it became quickly evident that this product would provide a lot more. Gamma Hydroxy have a dramatic, visible effect of wrinkles, skin pigmentation, acne scarring, dull environmentally damaged skin, ingrown hair and enlarged pores. Gamma Hydroxy leaves the skin clearer, fresher and silky smooth.
• It is suitable for all skin types. In extreme problematic skin, you can use it all year round. For other clients, we recommend that you use it twice a year during spring and autumn for a 12 week period to boost and renew your skin. Please remember that it contains AHA’s and BHA’s therefore you do need to wear at least a SPF 30 as well.
• In terms of value for money and quality of product I rate this product at “5”

Beauty Rules: Does and Don'ts for Skin Care

THE TEN THOU SHALT/ SHALT NOTS OF BEAUTY-according to me, that is!

In no particular order of importance, except numbers 1 and 2

THOU SHALT NOT tan, EVER!!! The sun is your enemy, NOT your friend. 

There is no such thing as a safe tan, sun beds included. It has been proven over and over and over....that the sun and sun beds give cancer. Sun beds and similar equipment are nothing but cancer machines and should be avoided at all costs. The sun is the number ONE reason for premature ageing and pigmentation.

THOU SHALT use a sun block SPF15 every day of your life. 

Come summer, winter, rain or snow you must wear it 365 days a year. Surfaces like water, snow, sand, glass, cement, even grass and all shiny ones reflect the sun’s rays causing even more damage. Altitude enhance the sun rays so be very careful if you are outside in the mountains.

 THOU SHALT NOT covet your neighbour’s skin. 

Your genes play a major role in how your skin looks and feels. Proper skin routines and STAYING OUT OF THE SUN will make your skin look healthy and beautiful in its own way. 

 THOU SHALT NOT look at the pictures in the magazines of beautiful anorexic looking YOUNG models and believe that all women should look like that. 

The photos are taken in perfect lighting, they use perfect make-up application, spend three hours getting their hair done and their teeth bleached, then the picture goes through digital enhancement and air brushing until it creates the perfect image.

 THOU SHALT NOT buy products over the internet from unreliable sources, during your friend’s “beauty party” at home or through TV shopping channels. 

These people are not trained to give you the best advice. Most of the time they will sell you anything as long as you buy something because they get commission on each and every sale they do, irrespective if the product contains caviar or baking soda.

  THOU SHALT remove ALL make-up every night before going to sleep.

 The body heal and repair itself only during sleep and the skin will absorb and make the most use of any treatment creams applied at night.

  THOU SHALT not squeeze, pick and hassle your skin until it is red, swollen and has irritated spots all over. It creates scarring and pigmented areas that can take months to heal, if at all.

 THOU SHALT not slather your body in cream until you look like a marshmallow. 

More is Not better. Use the creams sparingly and apply a little more if the first application is not enough to feel comfortable. You will only waste a lot of money and products if you overdo the application.

 THOU SHALT NOT exfoliate more than once a week, no matter what the lady in the shop tells you. 

Our outer skin layers can take up to 45 days to replace itself and if you rub and scrub the poor things off every day, you WILL get red, irritated and sensitised skin. THOU SHALT love yourself, ever minute of every day. We are all special and we all have endearing qualities, so let no one tell you differently.

Please be gentle to body, mind and spirit-Namaste