Get your glow back- looking at exfoliating and
gentle peeling systems
Basics on skin cells
Our skin has five different
layers and each layer has a specific purpose and lifetime. New skin cells are
created in the lower or first skin layer and thereafter all the cells move
upwards through the different layers while changing shape and eventually die
and fall off. This whole process is call
desquamation.
This journey from
birth to death usually takes 28-32 days. As we grow older, this process slows down and
it can then take up to about 45 days. As
the dead skin cells take longer and longer to shed, the skin starts to look
dull and lifeless. This is then when a
good exfoliating product is a lifesaver.
New age exfoliators
Until about 10 years
ago the most popular exfoliating products on the market were granular-based.
These granules were usually obtained from apricot pips or walnut shells, which
were finely ground and then added to a cream or gel base. The formulators for the beauty products then
started to use different kinds of plastic beads as well as finer granules
obtained from various plant-based materials.
Due to newer
technology, the latest offering from the beauty industry is fruit enzymes in
gel and cream bases. These products are much gentler on the skin and my
preferred products. The ingredients that are used in these formulations are for
example, pineapple enzymes or bromelain, papaya enzymes or papain and tomato
enzymes. These enzymes only need gentle
friction or heat to activate it so it is a good idea to use it while relaxing
in the bath tub.
What does it do?
A good exfoliator
gently removes dead skin cells to reveal a smoother and more refined
complexion. It should stimulate cellular activity while enhancing firmness,
radiance and younger looking skin. The granular formulations tend to be a bit
harsh on the skin, especially in the hands of client with oily/acne skin, as
they tend to overdo the process a bit.
One should never
exfoliate more than once a week in the case of oily/acne skins, and once every
two weeks for all other skin types. This is probably not the advise that you
have read or heard all your life, but trust me this is the way to go. If you
exfoliate too much, you irritate the skin and overstimulate the oil glands in
your skin and it then just produce more oil. You exfoliate again and the
vicious cycle begins…….
More punch..Fruit Acids please
If your skin still
looks dull and lifeless, even if you are following a good skin care routine, it
is time to look at the role that different fruit acids can play in getting that
glowing, youthful looking skin.
Fruit acids are
classified in two different categories; Alpha Hydroxy Acids and Beta Hydroxy
Acids.
Alpha Hydroxy acids
(AHA’s) that are normally used in cosmetics and cosmeceutical products are
glycolic acid (derived from sugarcane or grapes), lactic acid (derived from
milk), malic acid (derived from apples or beries), citric acid(derived from
citrus fruit or from fermented sugar solutions), as well as a myriad combinations with other
substances.
There is only one Beta
Hydroxy Acid (BHA), namely salicylic acid and its related substances, esters
and salts, salicylate, sodium salicylate. All these fruit acids may be used
alone or in combinations in beauty products, depending on what the formulation
will be used for.
In fruit acid exfoliators these
ingredients will act as follows:
Decrease the cohesion between
surface skin cells-dissolve the”glue” that hold the cells together.
Increase superficial skin
exfoliation
Increase cell turnover (the skin
cells will move quicker between the layers)
Stimulate collagen production-exceptionally
good for anti-ageing results.
Be a bit careful
Fruit acid exfoliators give
better and quicker results as those mentioned earlier, but come with a couple
of cautionary notes:
Please follow your beautician’s
instructions on how to incorporate this into your daily skin care routine.
Please do not overuse as it can
cause skin sensitivity.
Please do not use it if you skin
is sun burnt or show any other sings of damage.
Please use a SPF 30+ everyday, no
matter what the weather looks like.
Please stop using it if you
experience any adverse effects
In spite of the caution, it is
highly effective ingredients that will deliver on its promise.
The following exfoliators are available from the Beautique:
Vitaderm Skin Polishing Cream R 250/60ml
Active ingredients-Extracts of
peppermint, lavender and sandalwood, apricot seed powder.
This product is suitable for all skin types
except ultra-sensitive. It stimulates circulation and revitalise the complexion.
Vitaderm Enzymatic Gel Exfoliator R263/60ml
Active ingredients-Papaya and
pineapple enzymes, citrus fruit extract.
This product is suitable for all
skin types except ultra-sensitive. It revitalise a dull complexion by gently
and effectively remove dead skin cells, enhancing the skin’s radiance.
Vitaderm AHA Active Gel R405/50ml
Active ingredients- lactic acid,
glycolic acid, citric acid.
This AHA Active gel is rich in
fruit acids which work actively to smooth the skin’s surface and flush excess
pigment. It restores radiance to all skin types and assists in reducing fine
lines and wrinkles. In the case of oily/acne-prone skin types, the gel
encourages fewer breakouts by replenishing the acid mantle of the epidermis. By
restoring the natural acidity, the skin is able to protect and heal itself more
effectively.
Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy R870/ 50ml
Active ingredients-
A powerful one-step resurfacing
cream that can be used everyday. The continual renewing action of powerful
poly0hydroxy acids, works 24 hours a day like a time-released peel, continually
shedding the epidermal layer. Skin Doctors Gamma Hydroxy can be used to achieve
instantly glowing skin with long term results on the appearance of wrinkles,
freckles, age-spots and even acne scarring.
TheraVine Grapeseed Exfoliator R265/50ml
Active ingredients-Crushed Grape
Seeds, Walnut shell beads, Neroli, Sweet orange
A gentle cream containing crushed
Pinotage grape seeds, which sloughs off dead skin cells and makes skin look
younger.
TheraVine Pinotage Exfoliating Enzyme R286/50ml
Active ingredients-Grape seed
extract, pineapple and papaya extract, Sweet Orange.
A highly effective deep cleansing
serum based gel which effectively exfoliates the skin.
