Which Facial for my Skin Type?

This is a question many of my clients always struggle with. I offer quite a lot of  facials from 5 different product houses, so yes, it can be a bit confusing.

I tried to streamline the process and hopefully it will be easier to choose a treatment in future.

How to choose a facial:

What is my concern about my skin?
Is it oiliness, dryness, breakouts or is it in need of a deep cleanse?

What is my skin type?

Normal skin: This is the ideal skin type and you should thank you stars, your mother, father and their forbearers for gifting you with these genes. It is fine and even textured, firm, supple and has a good balance of moisture and oil secretions. The skin looks clear, without any impurities or blemishes and slightly warm to the touch. Pale skins will be pink in colour, and darker skins will have a mauve hue.

Dry skin: This skin type is caused by too little oil secreted by the skin. It has a very fine texture with no visible pores and may have a thin, almost transparent look. It will often feel tight and slightly hot and is prone to early, very fine lines and expression wrinkles. It is often sensitive to cold and wind, air conditioning and needs lots and lost of moisture/ oil combination creams.


Oily Skin: This skin type is caused by too much oil secreted by the skin. The skin texture may look shiny and uneven, having large pores with black heads (comedones) or even pastules (inflamed spots). It is difficult too keep clean but also very important not to over clean and dry out the skin. The good news is that oily skin tends to age slower because the sebum (oil) naturally prevents water loss.

Combination skin: This type of skin has both oily and dry patches. The oily part usually forms a “T” zone across the forehead and down the nose and chin. There may be enlarged pores over the oily part but the rest of the face and neck will be dry or normal.

Mature skin: This, to me is not a skin type but a skin condition as we were not born with mature skin but this (as we all surely know) develops slowly over time as we grow older. I will
describe the ageing process in another blog post.

Sensitive/ allergic skin: There is still a bit of debate going an about the difference between these two. However, I have always been able to contribute this problem to the use of incorrect products and it always disappears when the client uses the correct home-care products! It is usually dry with fine pores and may have red patches over the cheeks and nose. It may react to heat, cold, pressure, irritation or nervous conditions. It often responds to an allergic stimulus.

What is my budget?
There is always a facial for every budget. It may not always be the best facial available but it will address all your concerns and leave your skin comfortable and soft.

Which product range should I choose from?
If you are already using one of the product house's home care products, say Vitaderm, it is best to stay with that range and use one of the facials that they offer.

If you are not using any of the product houses that I stock and cannot decide on this,  please discuss it with me and I will find the best one available for your budget and concerns.

Please follow the links provided to help you choose a facial just for you:
Description of facials on offer

Please feel free to contact me at 082 398 9817 or gerda@agbeautysalon.co.za for more information.

Related article; http://agbeautysalon.blogspot.co.za/2016/09/different-skin-types-different.html

Healing Rose Glow Facial Treatment R260/45min. Come and spoil yourself and rejuvenate body and soul! You’ll be so glad you did!

Experience the healing powers of Rose Quartz and Rosewood Essential Oil…..

Healing Rose Glow Facial

In conjunction with the restoring and wonderful aroma of the rose scented oil, the treatment also includes a crystal massage specially designed for this facial. Suitable for all skin types and conditions.

Rose Quartz is used to balance the emotions, bring peace and calm, release stress and easing feelings of anxiety.  All these emotions carry the energies for forgiveness, tolerance, compassion and enabling us to see the good in both ourselves and others.

Rosewood essential oil rejuvenates the skin and keeps it looking youthful and glowing. It is wonderful for the treatment of acne and it stimulates the skin cells to regenerate. Rosewood will also help to restore the skin’s elasticity, thus promoting a smooth and wrinkle free skin.

The overall soothing pink colour also reflects our femininity, softness and youthfulness.

Optional extra: Buy your own Quartz Facial Skin Treatment Kit for only R25
#beautyblog
#absolutelygorgeous


Reference: Spirit, All Natural. "Tag: Science of crystal healing."

Why do I need a toner in my beauty routine?

The beauty industry use different names for the same product; toners, clarifiers, fresheners, refiners, tonics and astringents.  No matter what it is called, it is a must-have in your daily beauty routine. All these names refer to the product that you use after you have cleansed your skin. 

Toner

A well formulated toner is extremely beneficial for your skin and will improve your skin condition with regular use. 

There are so many beneficial products that can be added into a toner, that it will be easier to list those that should NOT be there:
• SD alcohols, especially denatured alcohols, as it dries the skin out and cause white patches on the skin
• Volatile plant extracts- it can cause allergic reactions
• Ammonia-is a CORROSIVE CHEMICAL and can irritate and burn the skin and eyes, leading to permanent damage.
• Camphor- Large amounts of camphor, even applied only to the skin or inhaled, can be toxic. Do not consume camphor or use it on cuts or broken skin. It may produce allergic reactions in some people, advises Drugs.com.
• Petrochemical like mineral oil, since they tend to cause superficial hydration with long term use and occlude the pores
• Chemical colours and fragrances. Some perfumes contains synthetic estrogen that interferes with your normal hormones. 
• Harsh preservatives like diazolidinyl urea and imidazolidinyl urea. Both are antimicrobial preservatives and act as formaldehyde releasers.
• Skin drying sulphates- Sulphates are a salt of sulphuric acid they create a lather and help strip away oil.

A good toner should:

Help to remove the last traces of make-up:
Just in case you missed some during the cleansing, the toning step will remove the last traces of make –up.

Help to refine pores:
Ingredients like mastic resin extract and witch hazel help to reduce pore size!

Witch Hazel Flowers

Help to reduce inflammation and irritation: 
In the case of compromised skin it should soothe and heal. Ingredients such as cotton seed extract, Green tea extract, Chamomile and Aloe vera are ideal for this.  

Chamomile flowers

WESSON Therapeutics has an excellent product range specially formulated for sensitive/compromised/reactive skin!

Restore the pH balance of the skin.
Our skin pH is about 5.5. This is the optimum level as it means that the skin is neither too dry or oily and can better absorb any treatment products that are used afterwards.

Helps with hydration:
Some toners contain ingredients such as avocado, palmarosa and rose geranium extract which helps to restore hydration to the skin as this product is not washed off after application. 

Rose Geranium

Control the oil/water balance:
It is very important, even for oily skin, to have the correct oil/water balance in the skin. 
Many toners for oily and combination skin will do just that with ingredients such as Ylang-ylang and Juniper berry extract. 

Many clients are very sceptical about the use of toners, but I would rather skip the morning cleanser and only tone if I am in a hurry. I use bottles and bottles of the stuff in comparison to my cleanser usage. 

Once you have found the correct one for your soothe any irritations, increase the efficiency of the moisturisers, and improve your skin condition, you will probably never go without it again.

As with the cleansers you should use toners that are skin-type specific and preferable one that compliments your cleanser. In other words, if you use a cleanser from a range of products for dry skin types, the toner that is in this range will 9 out of 10 times be the one that is right for you. 

However, do not hesitate to use a sensitive range toner with a dry skin or a combination range toner with a normal skin. 

I found that if you use a cleanser for your skin type and a toner for your skin condition, you will be happy with the result.

Salon products that I can recommend:

Normal Skin:
Vitaderm: Conditioning Toner
TheraVine: Balancing Toner

Vitaderm Conditioning Toner

Dry skin:
Vitaderm: Conditioning Toner
TheraVine: HydraVine Toner

Oily /Acne Skin:
Vitaderm: Antiseptic Toner, Regulating Toner
Theravine: Balancing Toner

TheraVine™ Balancing Toner

Combination skin:
Vitaderm: Conditioning Toner
TheraVine: Balancing Toner or HydraVine Toner

Sensitive/ allergic skin:
Wesson Calming Facial Mist

Wesson Therapeutics for Sensitive Skn

Mature skin:
Vitaderm: Conditioning Toner
TheraVine: Balancing Toner or HydraVine Toner
Phytomer: Ogenage Toning Cleansing Emulsion
Essel: DNA Epinew Rejuvenating Spritzer

Phytomer Ogenage Toning Cleansing Emulsion

Please read our articles “The importance of cleansing your skin” and “What is in a good cleanser?” to further help you to correctly cleanse your skin.

If you need any further information on how to choose your home care products, please contact us at 082 398 9817 for an appointment or if you want to know more about the products that we stock in the salon, please visit our website @ http://www.agbeautysalon.co.za/

Different Skin Types, Different Treatments

At Beauty College, I was taught that skin types can be classified as normal, dry, oily, combination, mature and sensitive. Skin types are seen as intrinsic factors that we are born with and these cannot change during our life time. Skin conditions are classified as dehydrated, acne, allergic, seborrhoeic and oedematous. Skin conditions are seen as temporary problems that we experience at any given time due to factors such as environment, diet, stress, hormonal imbalances, etc.

We were also taught that when you analyse a client’s skin you need to hold up a mirror, point out and tell her absolutely everything that was wrong with her skin. Imagine me sitting there and showing her every spot, pimple, wrinkle, freckle, dry patch, red patch, oily patch and every other patch you can think of. I never do this in my salon, as I am quite sure that this would end up in disaster.

Various beauty products

In various training manuals and beauty books, that I bought and read since then to try and make sense of this varied and complex subject, the classification of skin types differ depending on the author’s believes, training and experience. According to Florence Barrett-Hill in her book “Advanced Skin Analysis” only three basic skin types exist: Permanent Diffused Redness, Lipid Dry and Lipid Oily. 

What I now rely on, in conjunction with my very long and detailed questionnaire, when analysing a client’s skin, is to ask her how she experiences her skin and what her concerns and expectations are. Listening to her and taking it all into consideration, is as important as all my skin analysing techniques and training.

Here are short descriptions of the different skin types as used in most salons and these are terms that the clients are most used to and familiar with:

Normal skin: This is the ideal skin type and you should thank you stars, your mother, father and their forbearers for gifting you with these genes. It is fine and even textured, firm, supple and has a good balance of moisture and oil secretions. The skin looks clear, without any impurities or blemishes and slightly warm to the touch. Pale skins will be pink in colour, and darker skins will have a mauve hue.

Vitaderm has an Introduction Kit for every skin type

Dry skin: This skin type is caused by too little oil secreted by the skin. It has a very fine texture with no visible pores and may have a thin, almost transparent look. It will often feel tight and slightly hot and is prone to early, very fine lines and expression wrinkles. It is often sensitive to cold and wind, air conditioning and needs lots and lost of moisture/ oil combination creams.

Oily Skin: This skin type is caused by too much oil secreted by the skin. The skin texture may look shiny and uneven, having large pores with black heads (comedones) or even pastules (inflamed spots). It is difficult too keep clean but also very important not to over clean and dry out the skin. The good news is that oily skin tends to age slower because the sebum (oil) naturally prevents water loss. 

Essel Range of Products. 

Please contact the salon for prices

Combination skin: This type of skin has both oily and dry patches. The oily part usually forms a “T” zone across the forehead and down the nose and chin. There may be enlarged pores over the oily part but the rest of the face and neck will be dry or normal.

Phytomer CityLife for environmental stressed skin.

Mature skin: This, to me is not a skin type but a skin condition as we were not born with mature skin but this (as we all surely know) develops slowly over time as we grow older. I will 
describe the ageing process in another blog post.

TheraVine™ Products

Sensitive/ allergic skin: There is still a bit of debate going an about the difference between these two. However, I have always been able to contribute this problem to the use of incorrect products and it always disappears when the client uses the correct home-care products! It is usually dry with fine pores and may have red patches over the cheeks and nose. It may react to heat, cold, pressure, irritation or nervous conditions. It often responds to an allergic stimulus.

The quick route to do-it-yourself analysis:

In his book “Facelift at your fingertips”, Pierre Jean Cousin, analysed skin as follows: 

• Clean your skin with warm water and cotton wool balls. 
• Dry lightly with a towel and wait 30 minutes. 
• Cover you face with one layer of paper tissue, press lightly and leave for about one minute. 
• Remove and examine it. 

Results:
Oily stains over most of the tissue: your skin type is oily
Oily patches at side of nose, around mouth and forehead: Your skin type is combination
Faint oily traces over most of the tissue: your skin type is normalNo oily traces: your skin type is dry

Although this is far simpler than we were taught, and my lecturers will surely miss a few heartbeats by me mentioning this, it is a good start for those who need to know their skin type and can’t be bothered with lengthy and sometimes costly salon skin analysis.

Please keep in mind that when you have a skin problem like acne, very sensitive, allergic or pigmented skin, rather consult a good beautician to guide you about the care and the correct take-home products that will treat the problem and keep your skin in excellent condition. 

Whatever you skin type and condition, please treat your skin gently and remember: no tanning allowed!

For a consultation contact me at gerda@ agbeautysalon.co.za, or for more information visit our website at http://www.agbeautysalon.co.za/ .

Thanks to the following authors for their hard work in writing the books that helped me to be a better skin analyst:
Florence Barrett-Hill, Advanced Skin Analysis, Virtual Beauty Corporation Ltd, 2004
Pierre Jean Cousin, Facelift at your fingertips, Quadrille Publishing Limited, 1999
Ann Hagman, Aesthetics for the Therapist, Stanley Thornes ( Publishers) Ltd 1991
William Arnould-Taylor, Physical Therapy, Stanley Thornes ( Publishers) Ltd 1997

Hyper-pigmentation, a 3-step treatment success

Autumn is the perfect time of year to give serious attention to hyper-pigmentation as the sun’s power is on the wane and the UV radiation weakens. The sunlight hours are also getting shorter and this all helps to make the treatment of all pigmentation problems so much easier.

All skin types are effected by hyper-pigmentation

Pigmentation is a pesky problem that normally has its origin in overexposure to the sun, hormonal imbalances or some medical conditions.  I am not going to go into all the medical reasons for pigmentation, but will concentrate on sun exposure and hormonal issues.

This is the short version of how our cells react to sun exposure:
Skin colour is determined by the amount, distribution and type of melanin.  Melanin is the dark pigment that one’s skin produces, in the melanocytes, that shows up as a “tan.”  The “tan” that so many of us desire, is a result of a chain reaction that occurs to protect our skin from the harmful UV damage by forming a protective layer over the chromosomes in the cell and therefor protects the cells’ DNA.

The longer version is a bit more, well longer, and involves explaining all the chemical processes, enzymes, proteins, amino acids, hormones and much more that are involved in the chain reactions that form pigmentation.

I always refer to a tan as a CRY-OUT for help from our skins to “please stop the damage and get out of the sun!”

How do we tackle this complex problem?
Before starting an anti-pigmentation treatment course, one has to accept that it will take time, patience, determination and above all an understanding that one’s skin does not react overnight to any treatment protocol, no matter which product range one uses.

The best way to treat hyper-pigmentation is a 3-Step approach that:
1. Treats and corrects most of the causes of pigmentation- removes and minimises visible pigmentation
2. Restores the damage to the skin-hydration and strethening the skin
3. Protect the skin from future damage-anti-oxidant care and UV Protection

“A time has come where a scientifically advanced, cosmeceutical skin care brand such as TheraVine™ produces innovative skin care products formulated to address skin concerns related to pigmentation while promoting luminous, even skin tone and effective controlling hyperpigmentation caused by the natural ageing process, sun damage, excessive UV exposure and hormonal imbalances”-Lisa Smith, creator and CEO of L.S.Enterprises.

The TheraVine™ MelanoVine™ range addresses hyperpigmentation by making use of 2 cutting edge melanosome inhibiting peptides, a combination of 5 active ingredients comprised of Advanced Hydrating Systems and Anti-Oxidant Phyto-Chemistry as well as the nano-encapsulation technology of a revolutionary bilayer liposome leaving the complexion brighter, younger and more uniform.

The TheraVine™ MelanoVine™ range consists of the following products:

MELANOVINE™ BRIGHTENING MILK CLEANSER          250ml R        331.00
MELANOVINE™ BRIGHTENING CONDITIONER                  250ml R        311.00
MELANOVINE™ SOLUTION+ CONCENTRATE                  30ml R        595.00
MELANOVINE™ BRIGHTENING C+ DAY PROTECTION  50ml R        564.00
MELANOVINE™ RECOVERY+ NIGHT TREATMENT          50ml R        585.00
MELANOVINE™ BRIGHTENING C+ DAILY MATTIFIER  50ml  R        574.00

MelanoVine™ Brightening C+ Daily Mattifier Treatment Cream

MELANOVINE PRO-BRILLIANCE BRIGHTENING FACIAL  30 min
Normally R500  Now only R350 until end of May 2016 

Combining advanced technology with the latest skin brightening research advances delivered a unique facial treatment using specialised skin care techniques to provide effective and visible brightening results.

Ideal for a dull, devitalised skin with discolouration concerns, this treatment is specifically aimed at diminishing uneven skin tone while also minimizing the appearance of fine lines and wrinkles. Targeting hyperpigmentation at various levels with scientifically advanced actives and natural lightening plant extracts, this treatment will aid in a rehydrated complexion, leaving your skin
looking luminous and feeling radiant.
Prices correct as at 19.4.2016


For more information or to book a consultation, please call Gerda on 0823989817 or contact us agb111@mweb.co.za

Vitaderm Hydrating Treatment Cream and Vitaderm Intensive Hydrating Serum -The Ultimate Hydrating Boost- with Hyaluronic Acid

Hyaluronic Acid is a complex sugar that is naturally found throughout our bodies.  It helps to transport nutrients to cell and removes toxins.  It facilitates water retention in the body tissue and can absorb more than 1000 times in weight in water.

Hyaluronic Acid is one of the most commonly used ingredients in skin care products.

There are two molecular weights used in skin care preparations:
-High molecular weight- its molecule is too large to penetrate into the dermis, but it is highly effective as it helps to draw moisture from the atmosphere and hold it on the surface of the skin
-Low molecular weight- it has an extremely small molecule which is able to penetrate deep into the dermis where it has been proven to help stimulate collagen synthesis and increase dermal hydration.

Hyaluronic Acid can help to increase your skin’s moisture content and the same time strengthen the outer layers of the skin. All skin types will benefit from hyaluronic acid; it is light enough for oily skin types and also gentle enough for those with sensitive skin. It hydrates and plumps the skin, therefor it will greatly benefit dry and ageing skin.

Hyaluronic acid is also safe to use while pregnant or breastfeeding.

This ingredient is available in the following Vitaderm Retail Products:

Vitaderm Hydrating Treatment Cream R 320, special price for Feb 2016 R 272
This top selling emulsion is light, yet extremely effective. Ideal as a day cream for dehydrated skin, yet equally effective as a night cream for young combination skin types.

Vitaderm Intensive Hydrating Serum R 338, special price for Feb 2016 R 288
This serum provides a cushion beneath your chosen treatment cream. The hyaluronic acid content traps water against the skin, leaving your skin feeling supple and fresh all day long .Equally popular with men, this product is the ideal after shave treatment to hydrate and protect the skin against moisture loss

It is also in the following Salon facial treatments:
Intensive Brightening Facial Treatment
Hydro-Intensive Facial Treatment

Vitaderm Introductory Skin Care Kits for gifts and first-time users

Introductory Kits

Vitaderm is launching new Introductory Kits in December 2014. The first four kits will each contain the following items:

Cleanser 50ml, Toner 50ml, Day Cream 20ml, Night Cream 20ml as well as a specialized item such as a Complex or Serum 15ml.

Oily/Acne Prone Kit

Thi skin care selection is suitable for Oily skin that is prone to breakouts and contains Purifying Gel Cleanser/Antiseptic toner/Pore Minimising Gel/Purifying Cream/Skin Renewal Gel.

Normal/Combination Kit

This kit is recommended for Young, Problem Free skin types, as an initial introduction to skin care program and contains Mild Gel Cleanser/Regulating Toner, Ultra-Light Moisture Cream/Hydrating Treatment Cream/Soothing Complex.

Dry/Dehydrated Kit

This skin care collection is suitable for Dry Skin that is prone to dehydration. It contains Gentle Cream Cleanser/Conditioning Toner/Hydrating Treatment Cream/Protective Cream/Hydrating Complex.

Dry/Alipidic Skin

This kit is recommended for Dry and Very Dry skin, lacking sebaceous activity and contains Nourishing Cream Cleanser/Conditioning Toner/Ceramide Treatment Cream/Vitamin Night Cream/Regenerating Complex.

Normal Retail Price:  R392  Special Retail Price:   R333

Acne-a skin condition, not a life sentence

What is acne?

Acne is a skin condition located in the hair follicles on the skin.  It can be seen on the face, back, chest and arms of both male and female.  The first signs usually appears during puberty, around 14-17 years of age in girls, and 16 –19 years of age in boys.  It comes in spurts and can be triggered by sunlight, hormones, menstrual cycles and pollution. Approximately 15% of teenage girls will require treatment for their acne.  Most cases clear up in the late teens and early twenties.  Approximately 5% of women over the age of 25 will still need treatment.

There are four main reasons for the development of acne:

• Over production of sebum, a natural oil that keeps the skin soft and supple, due to an increase in androgens (male hormones) at puberty.
• Abnormal build up of dead skin cells on the surface of the skin, and in the hair follicles, which results in blocked pores.
• Inflammation in the blocked pores
• Bacterial infection
  

What acne is not..

• Despite the inflammation and bacterial infection that occur, acne is not an infectious ailment.
• What you eat or drink does not cause acne.

Treating acne

There are a number of means of treating acne:

• Medical treatments: antibiotics, Vitamin A derivatives, both oral and topical, benzoyl peroxide and in some specific cases, hormone therapy.
• Dermo-cosmetic treatments: most of the beauty houses offer an acne specific treatment.
• The earlier you start to treat your acne, the better change you have of getting it under control.

Treating plan using a professional salon product.

1.       Washing

This will rid the skin of excess oil, imbedded impurities and environmental dirt, without stripping the skin of all oil and causing irritation and dryness. Use a facial brush and softly move it in small circles over the effected area.

2.       Toning

This step will restore the Ph level of the skin.

                                                                                           

3.       Moisturise

Although the skin is oily, it still needs to be moisturised.  This cream helps to lessen the shine of the skin and to restore the moisture/oil balance of the skin.

4.       Specialised acne creams

Using specialised acne creams will help to reduce inflammation, redness and scarring and will control excess oil production.

5.       Sun protection

A sunscreen is essential for acne skin.  When tanning, the outer layer of the skin thickens, and although the tan makes acne seem to disappear, this only causes them to develop.

General comments

Treating acne can be a long and difficult process.  However, with time, patience and a personalised treatment programme, it can be treated and controlled.  You do not have to “live with it”!

• Please do not buy products that are not properly formulated for this skin condition: which are often irritating, drying and damaging to the skin.

• Avoid squeezing and pressing the acne, as this will increase the risk of infection and possible scarring.  Please leave this for us in the salon.

• Please stay of the sun, whenever possible.  If you have to be outside, always wear a sunscreen formulated for acne skin.

For more information, please contact us at 082 398 9817 or visit our website at www.agbeautysalon.co.za